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If you can't get to the bolts easily, you can test the starter on the unit. Just disconnect the battery cable from the starter and do the above procedure while it is installed. In theory, you could simply use the positive cable from the jumper cable from the battery to the post on the starter, but that won't isolate a bad ground. By using both sides of the jumper cables (you can connect the negative cable to the engine block instead of the starter if needed) you isolate the starter from the rest of the electrical system. That will tell you if the starter is good or not. If the starter works fine by jumping it, then you need to start tracing back through the system to find the faulty part. The fact that you were melting your battery cables makes me think its the starter, because nothing else in the system draws enough current to do that. Also, make sure you can turn the engine by hand before testing anything. I have seen engines that seize up after running and don't crank the next time they try to start the machine. If the engine can be turned by hand, then you can start testing the starter. If not, then you have a deeper problem.
MAKE SURE THE UNIT IS IN NEUTRAL AND THE BRAKE IS LOCKED BEFORE TESTING THE STARTER ON THE UNIT! You don't want the tractor running you or anyone else over while testing it.
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'76 IH 1066 Turbo Diesel, '73 IH 766 Diesel, '72 IH 574 Utility Gas, '56 IH 350 Utility Gas, '46 Farmall H Gas, '08 Bobcat Toolcat 5600 Turbo
Nobody puts that "C" word in front of MY International!
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